Reconstructing the Arnegunde Kaftan Card Woven Trim – some background
I have yet to find an image of the card weaving from the Arnegunde kaftan. I had hoped with the recent conservation work being completed, an image would surface. But no love there. So I will need to piece together the bits and pieces.
The most recent published mention of the card weaving is from Rast-Eicher’s article:
The tablet-woven band is made of at least 100 tablets and is about 6.5 cm wide. Nearly the entire width of one fragment was preserved – with just a few threads missing – but this one is otherwise hardly visible. The band is brocaded with a triple silk thread (z-spun) and displays a pattern of diagonals and lozenges (Fig. 33.3). (2010)
So color me rather intimidated by the “over 100 cards” thingy. I will try a run at the design with fewer cards and make the piece in wool for a test run.
Sadly, Peter Collingwood did not talk about either the Arnegunde or the Bathilde/Bertille weavings in his book. He did describe the similar Snartemo V textiles from the 6th century. For a refresher here are the late 5th/early 6th century card weaving found at Chelles. Both of these were buried with high status women, so would probably be a good source for inspiration.
The following piece has similarities to the Snartemo V finds with the interlaced lozenges.
Links to websites with similar styles of card weaving:
- Phiala’s Snartemo Demo Pattern
- brickvävning i snartemo (bonus video!)
Rast-Eicher, A. (2010) Garments for a Queen. North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles X. 208-210
Terms: tissage aux plaquettes, tissage à cartes, Arnegonde
Do you have any references for the Bathilde/Bertille weavings?
Here are a couple…. There are bits scattered through other sources….
Laporte, J.P. (1991). Tresor de Chelles: Sepultures et reliques de la reine Bathilde et de l’abbesse Bertille. Ville de Chelles: Musee Alfred Bonno.
Laporte, J.P. (1986). “Tissus médiévaux de Chelles et de Faremoutiers.” In Tissu et vêtement: 5,000 ans de savoir-faire. Guiry en Vexin, p.153-172.